"The 2019 Fleurie Joie de Palais is taut and concentrated, unwinding in the glass with notes of raspberries, cherries, sweet spices and musk. Medium to full-bodied, lively and saline, it's a vibrant, mineral wine with upside for those with a little patience. As readers may remember, this 1.5-hectare parcel of steeply sloping decomposed pink granite was planted in the 1950s. The 2019s have turned out beautifully at Domaine Lafarge-Vial, bursting with fragrant fruit, finer boned and more ethereal in style than the 2018s at the same stage. Acquired in 2014 by Volnay's Frédéric Lafarge and his wife Chantal, née Vial, this four-hectare domaine is biodynamically farmed. The grapes are partially destemmed and fermented with punch-downs and pump-overs during the maceration, followed by pressing in a vertical press. Maturation is in well-used cooperage from the Domaine Lafarge in Volnay. The result is old-school cru Beaujolais, built to age. Any readers looking for Gamay that will, with time in bottle, converge with great Pinot Noir should look no further." Wine Advocate 94p
"This too is attractively elegant and admirably pure with its even more floral suffused aromas of essence of dark berries that are laced with discreet spice wisps. There is fine volume and delineation to the vibrant and intensely mineral-driven medium weight flavors that firm up as the strikingly long finish sits on the palate. Even so, I suspect that this will be approachable after 3 to 4 years if you enjoy your Beaujolais on the younger side." Burghound 92p
Size: 1.50 ha (3.71 ac)
Variety: Gamay
Vine Age: Planted in the 1950s
Terroir: About 1/3 of the parcel has an extremely steep slope (50% grade) requiring plowing by horse. Soils are crumbly pink granite; these vines consistently produce smaller grapes.
Viticulture: Organic and biodynamic (awaiting certification)
Vinification: About 15% whole cluster, indigenous yeast alcoholic fermentation in concrete tank, gentle extraction. One year aging in older 228 and 350-liter barrels.
